Home >> Buying Guide

The Watch Case

If you don’t pay much attention to watches, you might think they are all round which most are. In recent years there’s been a growing interest in “shaped” or “form” watches e.g, non-round watches. The most common non-round shape is probably the rectangle. The “tonneau” shape with two curved sides and two straight ones, in the manner of a barrel has gained popularity in recent years. The square is also popular; when the sides are curved, the shape is known as the cushion. Particularly popular with women are ovals and elongated rectangles sometimes called “baguettes.” One relatively new shape, dubbed the “screen,” is wider than it is high and sits horizontally on the wrist. It is so named for it’s resemblance to a movie screen. “Screen tonneaux” are horizontal watches with curved sides.

Many materials are used to make watch cases. The most common are:

Steel: Steel watches have become enormously popular. They are part of a fashion trend toward white metals in general. The steel used in watches is stainless steel, meaning that it contains chromium which forms a protective coating on the metal’s surface and protects it from corrosion.

Gold: A perennial favourite for high end watches, gold comes in different colours. Most gold is yellow as you might expect but the addition of various base metals including nickel or copper can produce white or rose-hued gold (the latter is sometimes called “pink” gold, or “red” gold). Gold’s fineness e.g, the percentage of pure gold versus base metals used to alloy the pure gold, is expressed in “karats.” Most watches are made of 18 karat gold meaning the metal is 75% pure gold. Some watches are made of 14 karat gold which consists of 58% pure gold. Gold-plated cases are composed of a base metal such as steel covered with a thin layer of gold, most often measuring 10 microns or less in depth. A micron is equal to 1/1,000 of a milimeter. The process of applying gold is called electroplating. A gold-tone watch has a thinner layer of gold than a gold-plated one.

Titanium: A white, very durable metal that has become quite fashionable recently. One reason is the aforementioned trend toward white metals in general. Another is the surge in sales of sports watches which require dent resistant materials. Titanium isn’t just tough (30% stronger than steel), it is also corrosion resistant and very light. On the downside, it’s easily scratched. Many companies coat their titanium watches with a protective material to make it less vulnerable.

Aluminium: This metal was virtually unknown as a watch material until a few years ago, is also coming into greater use. It’s extremely durable and won’t tarnish or rust. Like titanium it is corrosion resistant.

Platinum: Is used in a few very expensive watches. Not only is it more costly than gold, it is very difficult and hence expensive to work with which is why it’s generally used in tiny production runs.

Carbon fiber: Is a lightweight, tough material, either as black or charcoal grey in colour, used for both watch cases and dials. It’s actually a combination of carbon fiber and strength enhancing polymer.

Other: Rubber, plastic and resin are often used for cases especially for sports watches. These materials are light, sturdy and resistant to water and corrosion. Recently there has been an explosion of experimentation using metals and alloys not normally associated with watch cases, metals like rhodium, palladium, magnesium, tantalum and bronze.

Aside from shape and material, there is another watch case variable, it’s degree of water resistance. It can range from none at all as with some dress and jewelry watches to thousands of meters, as with some diving watches meant for use by professional divers. Most water resistant watches indicate their level of water resistance on the dial or the back of the case. The most common designations are in feet or meters. Sometimes the abbreviation ATM, short for “atmosphere,” is used. One atmosphere is equal to 10 metres or 33 feet of water pressure. The term “bar,” is the equivalent of atmosphere. A water resistance level of 30 metres means that the watch can withstand splashes of water. A level of 50 metres means the watch can be worn in the shower, 100 metres means it can be worn swimming and 200 metres, scuba diving. Several factors contribute to a watch’s water resistance. The most important is the gaskets, or O rings which form water tight seals at the joints where the crystal, case back and crown connect to the watch case. Gaskets also protect chronograph pushers. A screw in back and crown can also help keep water out of a watch case.

The Watch Case

Rado Silver Strape